With our car stuffed to the gills with surf equipment and camping gear we began our journey south. We crossed the newly refurbished Tijuana border at approx 5am and made quick work of what can be a dragging section of the drive through Ensenada. Turns out not too many Mexicans are out and about early on New Years day, so we flew through all the areas that generally slow you down due to local traffic.
After 12 hours of driving we arrived at what was to be our new home for the following week. Greeted with head high waves and howling offshores we quickly put on our wetsuits to get a surf in for the last hour of sunlight.
The strong offshores continued for the first two days. So strong that take offs were generally "blind" due to the intense spray of water in your face while paddling into waves. The offshores made their typical afternoon appearance throughout the trip, but more manageable than the first two days.
One afternoon I stayed out by myself, well into the dark. I had perfect waves all to myself. It was an unreal moment to be so far from everything else in twilight light paradise just me, my board and a perfect right point. Although I didnt think about it at the time, the night session was great practice for the blind, offshore take offs.
During our stay the low tides (which were best for this spot) were in the early am and late afternoon. When the tide filled in mid day, logging sessions were the hot ticket. On one occasion I dove deep into our quiver (two logs, a single fin 6' 8", a 5' 10" fish, 5'8"swallow tail short board, a 4' 10" twin fin made by Chris, a handplane and a surf mat) and gave Chris's surf mat a go. I got a wave all the way from the point into the beach. It was a fun challenge riding that thing, but I must say if im gonna lay down I'd rather ride a bodyboard than a mat.
During one session when it was possible to take off behind the rock I managed to get myself washed over the rocks, not making a critical section. I ended up slamming my tailbone into a boulder. I floated laying still for a moment hoping I hadn't severely injured myself. Thankfully I was fine, just some bruising which I can still feel while writing this now.
The rock on the far right was not my tailbones' friend.
Full and warmed by the fire we made our way to bed early each night. I slept through most nights, except one. We forgot to put our trash in the car and without fail a Coyote showed up and proceeded to drag our trash all about camp forcing us to get up and scare him off. Another night just before bed, while tidying up camp we discovered a snake in my board bag. I remembered watching Endless Summer II as a kid, seeing Wingnut do back flips when he discovered the iguana in his bag; I couldnt help but chuckle to my self. It was a small and probably harmless snake, so we just carried him away from camp on a shovel.
Even the view from the outhouse was great!
We surfed all day, every day. We stopped only to eat and gather fire wood. Spending so much time in the water, we inevitably made some new friends throughout the trip. Steve Gade from Los Osos, Gary from Oregon, Mike w/ the bad hip, a guy from Colorado whose name escapes me. Several other small groups from Santa Cruz were also in the mix. Most of the older guys in camp had been making an annual pilgrimage to this spot for decades, so I imagine we'll see them again next time.
Travel partners hanging out
good trip boys!
THE END
thanks for not naming
ReplyDeletehey nice feature on surfline tripwire! stoked to see the photos from the trip, do you have any other ones you didn't post from the evening and morning session you were out shooting?
ReplyDeleteredheaded guy from above photo