Cardiff morning of 1/6/12

Got back in the water today after a day of absence due to some optical issues of the human kind. Apparently due to a lot of time in the water, especially shooting, the cornea on my left eye has been compromised. Its not that bad actually, just feels like there is sand in my eye at all times. I Spent all yesterday running around to doctors offices, eventually figuring it out I had severely dried out my eyes, primarily the left one...ye old shooting eye.

Obviously I couldn't pass up the first big swell of the year...

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Dale Dobson celebrates one of his bombs on the nose

after the session Dale told me there were some eight footers...

damnit.

he got all the best ones, naturally.

the weirdos were all hanging out together

Until next time, get out there!

Recent Swell

During the recent swell I've been in the water with my board more than my camera. Its been awhile since I shot with this lens in the water and I'd forgotten how difficult it is to be in the right spot at a beach break with an inconsistent swell. None the less it was great to shoot a bit. Jesus and I shared the same fate on this wave.

O'l Sandspit

Dug up some old sandspit photos that I shot while i was living in Santa Barbara. I hope i'll be there again when its going off like this...